Bourne Mill

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This National Trust property was originally a fishing lodge used by the monks of St John’s Abbey.  A stream, the Bourne, emerges a short distance north of the site and spills out to form a large pond, thought to have been created artificially as there appears to be no geological reason for the water to widen.

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After the dissolution of the monasteries during the reign of Henry VIII, St John’s Abbey passed to the Lucas family and later, they began to demolish it.  Seeking to improve on the monks’ fishing hut, they constructed what’s now Bourne Mill.  The stones were cannibalised and together with those Roman bricks, pieces of flint and some Walton-on-the-Naze septaria to hold it all together, formed the new structure.  If you’ve been to Colchester and seen its castle and wall, you’ll notice some similarities.

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The wonderful building that you see today at Bourne Mill was the result.  Well actually, not quite.  What Sir Thomas Lucas built was a single story dwelling, thought to be a place where he could go with his well-heeled mates to fish and then hang out over dinner.  On the ground floor, there are two fireplaces which lend credence to this theory.

Carp, pike and wildfowl would have been plentiful so it seems likely that this story is true.  This beautiful banner, stitched by the Colne and Colchester Embroiderers Guild, tells the story.

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But that story doesn’t end there, of course.  Now that Britain was Protestant, it became a haven for those fleeing religious persecution in Catholic Europe.  Granted refuge by Queen Elizabeth 1 in 1565, they boosted the town’s population, congregating in what would later become known as Colchester’s Dutch Quarter.  Though they kept themselves separate when it came to socialising and marriage, they did have a profound effect on the north Essex landscape and economy, bringing their weaving industry skills and breathing new life into a flagging industry.

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The Dutch introduced new worsted draperies, known as bays and says.  They were lighter and cheaper, and not surprisingly proved very popular.  A method of quality control was introduced in 1631, immediately raising the status of Colchester cloth.  That Dutch seal automatically meant that your cloth fetched a higher price; faulty workmanship, on the other hand, would lead to fines (called rawboots) being levied.

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Bourne Mill grew an upper storey, recognisable by the gable ends that are also commonly found in the Netherlands and Belgium.  It became a fulling mill,  a place where cloth was softened to make it more wearable.  A waterwheel would have made the process of hammering the fabric much less labour-intensive.  Initially urine, collected from the poorhouse, would have been used in the process; the ammonia it contained helped to clean and whiten the cloth.  Later, Fuller’s earth would have been used instead.  Afterwards, the cloth was stretched on frames known as tenters to dry – attached by tenterhooks.

After a while, the Essex cloth industry fell into decline once more.  The cloth industry, bay especially, was vulnerable in the 18th century to disruption by wars, competition from rival manufacturers, and the import of cotton.  By around 1840, Bourne Mill was no longer in use as a fulling mill.  As the cloth industry declined, the fulling mills were converted to grind corn or grain, competing with the many windmills that dotted the landscape.

Bourne Mill was converted to a corn mill by 1860 and it’s for this purpose that the uppermost floor and sack hoist would have been installed.  The three millstones used at Bourne Mill were imported from France.  Later, it was steam driven, but the last miller hung up his apron in 1935.

Today, the property is managed by the National Trust.  You’ll find it a 20 minute walk from Colchester Town station just east of Mersea Road, which is served by buses from the town centre.  If you drive, there are a few parking spaces at Bourne Mill but if these are full, roadside parking is available nearby.  If you’d like to explore other mills in North Essex, the map below gives you an idea of where to find them.  For one of only two working tide mills in the country (the other is at Woodbridge in Suffolk), check out Thorrington Tide Mill, a short distance from Colchester:

https://essexology.wordpress.com/2016/04/19/thorrington-tide-mill/

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Epping Forest

It seems almost surreal, a trip to an Essex woodland but accessed via a London Underground station. But take a walk from Theydon Bois to Epping and that’s precisely what you’ll do. Even before you’re out of earshot of the traffic, you’ll be passing trees that graced these parts long before the buildings that surround them.

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In this ancient woodland is hidden something even older: an Iron Age hill fort, said to be the location for Boudicca’s last stand against the Romans almost two thousand years ago.  Having defeated the Romans at their then capital, Colchester, Ambresbury Banks is thought by many to be the site of the great warrior woman’s final battle, though other places claim the same honour.

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Hidden off the main path in a hollow, the fort consists of a 2 metre high bank and alongside it, a ditch, which together encircle an area of about 11 acres.  Archaeologists excavating the site have found pottery shards, flints and lumps of baked clay.  By the time of Boudicca’s battle, the fort had been abandoned for a couple of decades.  It’s hard to imagine a clearing here now that the vegetation has regrown, but this area would once have been cleared as farmland for the fort’s inhabitants.

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Chafford Gorges

Close to Lakeside and within the buzz zone of the M25 there sits a connected set of gorges.  Not your ordinary gorges, however: these are what remains of three chalk quarries, Warren Gorge, Lion Gorge and Grays Gorge.  Worked from the end of the 18th century for about 150 years, this was an important centre for cement production and a significant local employer.  If you visit Lion Gorge you’ll be able to spot the remains of the old 19th century tramway which carried the chalk to the riverside wharves of the nearby Thames.

The gorges now form an Essex Wildlife Trust nature reserve.  I’m the first to admit I’m not a keen birdwatcher, but even I was impressed to see so many geese, some with goslings toddling along too.  I think I’ve identified them correctly, but please do put me straight if I haven’t!

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Greylag geese
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Canada geese with very young goslings

Geologists will be impressed by the reserve.  Fossils have revealed that the area was once a tropical sea – yes, tropical Essex, who knew?  There’s an information board at the visitor centre if you’re keen to find out more.

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The lake at the bottom of Warren Gorge

Though quite small, it’s a great place to stretch your legs.  Gentlemen, this could even be the perfect man-crèche while the wife goes to Lakeside.  From the visitor centre car park, it’s an easy half an hour stroll down into the bottom of Warren Gorge, looping the lakes and then up to the quarry rim.  Dogs are permitted, but seasonal nesting means that at this time of the year they’ll need to be on leads to keep those tiny chicks safe.

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Heading out of Warren Gorge to the rim of the former quarry